Pretty in Pink
Revisiting Venice in March I am overwhelmed and enchanted by the colour pink. In sky, water, buildings, lamps, mosaics, paintings, furniture, fabrics, outdoors and indoors – pink is everywhere! So I give you a pink post. The photos (taken over seven days) begin in the early morning, move through the day and finish at night.
Sometimes bright, sometimes subtle – “Pretty in pink, isn’t she?” – “The Psychedelic Furs” ( and by the way, who remembers that song?)
The Coast of Most
Wellington Cable Car
Home is where the heart is – and this past week I’ve been there. Let me show you ‘my place’ – where I lived for the first eighteen years of my life (the formative years).
Zealandia Ecosanctuary in Karori
I grew up in Karori (the only bit of this post that isn’t on the coast). Here we find Zealandia, an ecosanctuary where ornithologists are dedicated to studying and re-establishing native bird populations in the Wellington bush and suburbs. What an inspirational area to visit – and I recommend you do.
A kaka sizes me up.
Matthew and I stay at Island Bay, one of the southern beaches. The view is so different depending on the weather that throughout this post there are several photos of views from our lounge window. The hills beyond are the eastern ranges of Pencarrow. This is a pearl of a morning. (We watch the planes coming in if it is a northerly and going out if it is a southerly.)
Island Bay calm morning (but cold!)
Several times per day the Interislander ferries sail past us commuting between North and South Islands.
Island Bay stroll. (These must be locals because they are dressed as if it is warm – which it isn’t.)
The next beach along is Owhiro Bay. The mountains in the distance are the Kaikoura mountains of the South Island. They have fresh snow on them – gorgeous – due to a sudden southerly blast the previous day.
Owhiro Bay houses
Owhiro Bay life.
Kaikoura mountains, ferry and SPRAY!
Right in the heart of Wellington city is Oriental Bay.
Oriental Bay
Oriental Bay sky on a breezy afternoon.
Late afternoon lounge view. The end of a sapphire day in Wellington.
The following morning the weather has changed. Clouds and northerly gales are the order of the day.
Island Bay view from the lounge
We drive across the Rimutaka Range to Palliser Bay. To call it windy is a gross understatement!
The coastline at remote and wild Lake Ferry.
Southern black-backed gull
White-fronted terns and black-backed gulls.
Matthew, flying cormorant and tern flock.
Wild windy sky over Lake Onoke.
Further around the coast (another 50 kms) is Ngawi where crayfish are caught. Lack of a harbour means that bulldozers have to haul the fishing boats up onto the sand. “A graveyard for bulldozers” is how it is described to me.
Ngawi
New Zealand fur seals live here.
“Hello”
Two friends.
Cape Palliser is the southern-most tip of the North Island.
We approach the lighthouse
250 steps – rather scary as they are so steep!
We make it to the top! And the wind is screaming!!!
On the drive home the northerly gales are so strong that rubber piping on the roof of our hire car actually peels off and starts to flap about! We have to get out (hold onto the car) and pound it back in with our fists and finger tips.
Sky patterns on the drive back.
Back in the lounge at the end of the day. (We had been on the other side of those far hills.)
By next morning the wind has changed back to southerly – so in our lounge view planes are taking off.
Southerly morning at Island Bay
A ferry pushes through the swell.
We drive over to Makara to see our dear friends Jenifer and George Welch (who used to own Makara Riding School where I spent as much of my teenage years as I could riding horses). Jenifer and George give us a huge treat, a history and geography tour over the hills into Terawhiti Station, completely out of bounds to the general public.
Karori Rock lighthouse at Tongue Point. Kaikouras in the distance.
The wild coast of Cape Terawhiti, and far away a ferry approaches (a distant white dot).
…the white dot has materialized into the ferry…crossing the Cook Strait.
Looking north, wind turbines on the skyline of Makara hills. Mana and Kapiti Islands beyond.
Our dear friends, Jenifer and George with Tick, at their bach.
Later that afternoon, back in Island Bay…
On the move – cruise ship, plane and seagull. (Our view again).
I hope the passengers remembered to take their seasick pills.
Finally it is our turn to fly out of Wellington. We take off to the north. Can you see our Air New Zealand shadow?
Flying over the bays
Goodbye Fair City – for now.
The Coast of Most what? Most hills, cliffs, waves, spray, swells, seabirds, winds, rain, clouds, sun, planes, ships, inter-island ferries, rugged landscapes, distant mountains, seaside cafés with great views, friendly locals, narrow winding twisty roads, and constantly changing light. And because Wellington is just a little bit seismic, what you see today might look different tomorrow. You just never know.
Let Your Heart Speak
How to get to the island of Burano from Venice – arise early. Alicia and I are two of only four passengers aboard the 07:10 vaporetto on a bright Sunday in November 2018.
The ferry skits past Murano. Venice is framed in the distance.
Here we are in Burano, an artist’s paradise of multi-coloured dwellings. And we seem to be almost the only people up.
We immerse ourselves in the joy of colour. We become part of the colour.
Like the other islands in the lagoon, Burano has a network of canals.
At first the water remains inside them.
But then –
Look at this!!!
The tide is coming in. Even the town square is morphing into a lake as water pops up through holes. The locals are laughing at me as I exclaim madly and photograph their morning coffee turning wet. They’re perfectly used to it.
Raised platforms are erected, ready for the spread of water.
A nonchalant local goes about his day as usual…
…while a tourist improvises…
I am overwhelmed by the almost silent beauty of the changing landscape. A little lapping sound perhaps…and a breeze.
Alicia and I continue our walk and our photography.
(Let there be light)
We wander across a pedestrian bridge to Mazzorbo, a tiny piece of land adjoining Burano. There is a market garden/vineyard which is open to wander through. In the garden is a sign which reads, “Let your heart speak“. This is a message to the school children of Burano who are invited to partake in the creativity of the garden. I am touched, and write it down so I don’t forget.
We peek inside the 13th century Chiesa di Santa Caterina, then pay our respects to those who reside in her graveyard. This is a view back to Burano through chrysanthemums outside the cemetery.
By the time we meander back to Burano the tide has receded. Wet pathways glisten. Any remaining water has been pushed back into the canals by brisk brooms.
The tourists have arrived. Shops are open. The town begins its Sunday trade. Alicia spends time in the lace museum while I walk and photograph. (The dog comes over to say hello and gets a warm reception from me.)
The cat (typically) ignores me.
Colours, colours, colours!!!
I discover that Burano has its very own leaning bell tower (17th century).
And finally I return to Alicia back at the designated meeting place. I manage to capture her while she is unaware of me.
Thank you Burano. This morning excursion is one of the highlights of our Italian trip. It is nothing short of a magical mystery tour…a mother-and-daughter special!
Let us all endeavour to take the message in the Mazzorbo garden into 2019 – and beyond. Happy New Year! Let your heart speak.
Enchanted Venice
It’s true. Venice is a tourist trap. It is groaning under the weight of people as much as it is soaked by increasing washes of acqua alta. It is claustrophobic and impossible not to get thoroughly lost…continuously! When the tides are very high the waterbuses (vaporetto) stop running leaving one stranded. It is wet, wet, wet. Who would go there? Who, having been, would ever want to go back?
(After five days I said to my traveling companions, “I don’t think I’ll ever come back here”. They nodded in agreement.)
It’s a lie! I don’t mean what I said about not wanting to go back.
The enchanted city has caught me. In the few weeks since I was there its spell has been intensifying, working its way into my emotional landscape as surely as an incoming tide.
Venice – wait for me! I will surely return.
Venetian selfie
Sumptuous Paris
I take photos to make drawings from. But not always. These ten photos don’t require reinterpretation as drawings. They are happy just to remain photos – celebrating a city with more than its share of visual romance; sumptuous Paris.
La Conciergerie with reflections on the Seine pre-dawn.
Jardin des Tuileries
The view from the steps of Basilique du Sacre-Coeur in the late afternoon.
Ravens being fed at Parc des Buttes Chaumont on a benign autumn Saturday.
The joys of coffee and pastries from a shop such as this! (My daughter, Alicia and her friend, Marissa.)
Melt-in-the-mouth cakes within, elegant architecture without – appreciated simultaneously.
Stunning floral display at Jardin du Luxembourg.
From inside one of the art galleries at Centre Georges Pompidou, looking across from Notre Dame to Pantheon.
A view of Les Halles (St Eustache on the right) from Centre Georges Pompidou.
Construction and constructing…
Cool Parisian Shop Dogs
Dog walking in Paris
I have just returned from two weeks in Paris. It was a photographic material-gathering trip for new drawings. While looking for inspiration, sometimes I took photos just for fun. Below are three stylish Paris dogs in their super-cool shops.
Japanese shiba inu in the hairdressing salon
Most days I passed by a hairdressing salon in the Marais. This immaculately-groomed dog was regularly in the window watching the action outside. He was way too cool to look at me as I knelt down on the pavement to take his photo.
Dog on the counter
This little guy was on counter duty in a shop somewhere near Centre Georges Pompidou. I seem to remember that it was a shop selling accessories – which is fitting as he looks like an accessory.
In the doorway of an optical shop.
I saw this shape from a distance somewhere between the 5th and 6th arrondissement and first I wasn’t sure what I was seeing. I went closer and we regarded one another.
“Hello”
Parisians sure love their dogs! And don’t we all?!
“Jacques Russell”
coloured pencil drawing of a Paris dog from a previous trip.
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Christchurch: Now’s Good
When is a good time to visit Christchurch?
In 2010 and 2011 Christchurch suffered catastrophic earthquakes.
It still hasn’t recovered. You can see huge empty spaces right in the city centre.
Perhaps you should have visited prior to 2010.
Perhaps if you wait long enough until you are old, Christchurch’s scars will be completely healed.
It is certainly a city compromised. But then again, who isn’t compromised in some way; place or person?
Meanwhile, this is Christchurch right now.
The beauty is here…
…all around. It is up to each of us to find it.
When is a good time to visit Christchurch? Now’s good.
(See also “Nothing but Flowers” written on 14 January 2016.)
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Fun in Higashiyama
Fun in Higashiyama
When I go to Kyoto I spend a lot of time on the streets of Gion, Pontocho, Miyagawacho and Gion Higashi trying to get photos of maiko and geiko. Trooping around the kagai (geimaiko districts) is sheer hard work! In contrast, a gentle stroll around the eastern hills of Kyoto; Higashiyama, is pure fun. This area is where I can enjoy all I see, smell, hear, taste (and spend money on) without any of the self-induced stress suffered in the four hanamachi below. There is a magic atmosphere in Higashiyama. Everybody seems to be happy – just like me. Let me show you a little of Higashiyama, experienced from my June 2016 trip. (Click on the photos below to enlarge.)
Blue Stocking dress shop. I am fascinated by the sweetly conservative outfits in the window.
Tiny Cat (4 cm high) is crying to be saved. It is sitting on a stone by the side of the road. I photograph it (not caring that passers-by must think I’m nuts) then scoop it up and bring it back to Australia. (See final photo)
Brides and grooms come up the hill to be photographed as there are so many areas of gorgeousness here…to which they add their own colourful splendour.
A street scene with hydrangeas. (Warm and wet June is hydrangea month.)
Joyful bride and groom.
A couple of henshin (girls dressing up as maiko) pose for one another at a particularly photogenic spot.
Traditional wooden architecture framed by trees; Yasaka Pagoda behind.
I gaze into the window of a shop which sells fine incense. I am fascinated by the juxtaposition of what is displayed behind the glass pane, with outside reflections upon its surface.
Can you see the reflection of the bridal couple walking past this shop window? (Enlarge the photo by clicking on it, then you will.)
Stunning dolls on display in a rather exclusive gift shop window.
From up at Kiyomizu Temple there are expansive views of the basin which Kyoto sits in, surrounded by high blue hills.
Looking down a steep set of steps. (You can stroll but you still have to climb!)
Yasaka Pagoda peeps over the wooden buildings which house tempting gift shops and cafés. Many visitors to Kyoto wear yukata which brings even more colour and charm to a scene.
In the distance, a bride and groom pose under the Yasaka Pagoda.
Ai ai gasa – two under the same umbrella.
Back down on the flat in the hanamachi of Gion Higashi. This urban desert is a stark contrast to lush Higashiyama – just a few minutes walk eastwards and upwards.
P.S. From Higashiyama to Julie’s studio, Tiny Cat among friends.
Higashiyama is a tourist area but it is also a spiritual place, housing many temples, shrines and ancient gardens. Nobody ever tries to grab your attention or herd you into their shops. You can have as much or as little people interaction as you please. Even when it is thronging with people, there is a sense of peace. To me, it is a kind of paradise.
Currently I am working on a drawing sourced from my time spent in Higashiyama. (It has something to do with one of these photos.) When it is finished, it will be unveiled on my next post.
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Photobombs on the streets of Kyoto
When one is trying to photograph maiko and geiko on Kyoto streets, one is certainly not alone. Cars cruise by while dangerously-speeding taxi drivers blare their horns at straying pedestrians. Delivery boys on bikes whizz and a constant stream of cheek-by-jowl pedestrians wander willy-nilly. Huge whale-like tourist buses haul themselves down narrow Hanamikoji-dori. (Why, oh why, are buses allowed on such a narrow pedestrian-filled street?) On every trip I get many photos which are severely compromised by other people’s body parts or rushing traffic. I usually delete them but I thought you might like to see some from this trip. It can be quite entertaining to see what turned up in one’s photos, often not realised until one is examining them back home. (Click on each photo to enlarge.)
A very common situation – another person walks into my picture frame. (By the way, the girl at the back is a shikomi; if she makes it through her shikomi year, she will become a maiko.)
“Dear Shikomi, one day in the future you may wear clothes like those whose bags you are carrying, but for the moment, you spoiled my obi shot”.
Sometimes it is the people behind your subjects that spoil the shot. No offence to them personally, mind you.
Another person walks into my picture frame. Because I always stand and photograph quite far away from my subject, this often happens. I never want to loom in a person’s face.
Drats!
In this case I was the unwelcome addition to a photo. The person you see taking a photograph of this wedding couple kindly asked me to move. (I quickly did so.)
Fast action on the part of the photographer who jumped in front of me.
The ubiquitous elbow photobomb as its owner takes a photo of Kimihiro.
“Look at me!” I was in the view of all these guys (sorry guys!) just as they are in my view.
Another ‘drats’ moment.
There is one of those tourist buses. In my opinion, such a huge vehicle should not be allowed on this tiny street. Plus, a small example of the billion school children who I saw over my three days on Hanamikoji-dori.
Nothing wrong in the foreground. But the guy in the black face mask behind the maiko is the spoiler. And the car doesn’t do any favours either.
I would just like to point out how NOT to photograph maiko and geiko. Here is poor Sayaka having her personal space totally invaded by a woman. Meanwhile the woman’s partner waits right at the entrance to Ichiriki, where Sayaka will enter, to accost her again. This is utterly insensitive and predatory behaviour by tourists.
As opposed to the previous photo, these tourists, also at the entrance of Ichiriki, look on with admiration and respect; completely non-threatening.
And finally, if you have read and looked this far, I am happy to say that not every photo I take photobombs out! Here is Fukutama.
Chicago
A wide view from our “Chicago Architecture River Cruise”.
During our recent trip to America, Matthew and I had one and a half days to briefly look at Chicago. Here are a few photos taken during our walk on a rather brisk (fairly freezing) spring day.
I will remember Chicago as a city of flowers. I have never seen such a wealth of beautiful flower displays on major city streets as I saw here.
The spectacular tulips grabbed my attention.
I was continually aiming my camera down…
…and back up again!
The banner says “Chicago. We’re glad you’re here!” And we were glad as well. I photographed the sun just to prove it was out. It didn’t appear to have much heat in it though.
Matt in front of Trump Tower. Matt’s hat outed him as a tourist…(most probably from Australia).
Did somebody say the word Trump? (Just seein’)
This caught my eye. It was at the entrance of a shopping centre. It was quite a jolt – reminding me graphically that guns are real and plentiful in America. No, I had never seen a sign like this before and I have been to many countries.
Imposing steel bridges cross the Chicago River at regular intervals.
What a great city if you love architecture.
On reflection: a cityscape within a wall of glass.
A touch of elegance to finish which brings to my mind Fred Astaire. The dress in this display window is made of chain mail!
Our glimpse was enough to fuel our curiosity and enthusiasm to return. Chicago seemed like the modern gleaming city, embracing high rise living and looking towards the future while retaining gorgeous buildings from many past eras. “Futuristic”, says Matthew.
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Julie Podstolski - Abstract Realism 