Pontocho Perfect

“Pontocho Perfect” coloured pencils, 46.5 x 27 cm. Drawn in December 2023

Pontocho, a narrow lane in downtown Kyoto, reminds me of a Venetian calle. It has the same kind of intimate claustrophobic walking space as that of a calle – squished between buildings – a tight fit. You may enter Pontocho from either Shijo Street at its southern end or Sanjo Street at its north. As soon as you turn into Pontocho you enter another world.

Pontocho is known and loved for its lively atmosphere, enormous variety of bars and restaurants – mmmm – the aromas as you pass by them! When it is quiet though, that is when you feel the spirit (and spirits) of the place. 

It is also one of the five remaining hanamachi (flower towns) or geisha districts of Kyoto. These days it is so popular with tourists that one moves along in a throng (again like Venice); slowly, one vast mass made up of many bodies, edging along from north to south or south to north; bodies trying to squeeze past bodies. People stopping to read menus, people stopping to take selfies – others navigating around them. How the maiko and geiko get about, I’m not sure!

I took my own secret trip to Pontocho – here at home in Perth. I spent the whole month of December on site (in my head) – working on “Pontocho Perfect“. Not only did I space-travel, but I time-traveled, because I worked from a photo I had taken in 2005. How peaceful Pontocho was at just after 12 noon on Monday 14th November 2005. Two maiko swept past me in a flourish of floaty fabric. I delighted in their cool perfection.

“Floating in Kyoto”, 2006, was the first drawing I made of this scene. Note the different composition between the two drawings. (No lantern on the right in the new drawing.)

I don’t know who the maiko were but perhaps somebody will recognize them from the following photos.

8 thoughts on “Pontocho Perfect

  1. marian orourke

    Incredible, there is no telling which is the photo and which is the drawing. I can understand how you time travelled as you executed the drawing. Amazing 🎆

    Reply
    1. juliepodstolski Post author

      Hi Marian, well, they are BOTH the drawing (two drawings). The only photos are the two at the bottom of the post which I added in case any experts could identify the young women.

      Reply
  2. xanderest

    Fascinating , Julie ! of course your wonderful drawing but also that place , those people — what a slice of life from a completely different time and place . Time travel indeed and a completely immersive experience for you drawing it again . I’m envious of that – that is re-living that lovely experience in such detail without the discomfort of actually being there .

    Fabulous !

    Judy.

    Reply
    1. juliepodstolski Post author

      Yes, Judy, it is that immersive ‘something’ which I like most about drawing. I missed that when I was working on local subject matter (Fremantle and birds) much as I like them. What I like most is to take myself away; like, going down a rabbit hole (not a conspiracy theory rabbit hole which is the type many go down these days). Re-living experiences is such a lovely indulgence.

      Reply
  3. anna warren portfolio

    Having the archive of photos from your previous trips is proving to be such a valuable resource. Back then, you would have had no idea that the crowds would have taken over these areas so much. It’s a lovely, serene drawing, the two young women look as though they are chatting gently and comfortably as they quickly go about their business, probably something that is now impossible with the crowds. It really is a taste of ancient Japan. I like the more streamlined version that you have now created, it really takes us on a walk with them down that wonderful alleyway.

    Reply
    1. juliepodstolski Post author

      Oh – good point. We only know the normal of today; not the normal of tomorrow.

      Isn’t it funny how a subject can seem relevant or irrelevant at any time. I have slotted back into the Kyoto groove so only geisha seem relevant/meaningful to draw right now. Birds are out the window (literally and figuratively). This Japanese lark will probably come to an end after the up-coming (late April) European trip. Meanwhile, I’m loving it so much.

      Reply

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