A Girl’s Best Friend

A Girl’s Best Friend

Just a moment please

When I watched Kiyono at her misedashi walk in late March, (her first day as a maiko) I was most impressed with her ‘support’ person.  Not only was he constantly adjusting her hair implements and fine-tuning her kimono, but he was looking out for her in every way.  He appeared easy-going and gregarious but his eagle-eye missed nothing.  While he looked after Kiyono, he even had concern for the crowd of photographers.  He made sure none of us got run down by the ever-present zooming taxis as we weren’t taking enough notice of traffic conditions ourselves (being fully engaged in photographing Kiyono).

Who do we call on next?

His title is ‘Otokoshi’ which roughly means dresser.  (A maiko’s ‘obi’ – or sash – that you see tied around her kimono is 7.5 metres long and heavy hence takes a man to tie it.)  He is  much more than a dresser though.  It seems to me that he is the ultimate professional in smoothing the path for his important charge.

The two of them shared many jokes.

Imagine how nervous you would be if you were a teenager and you were about to face the world in a brand new public role.  You’d want this guy on your team.  On this day, the walk around the neighbourhood took around one and a half hours.   I was exhausted long before it was over and I had normal footwear on and wasn’t being scrutinized and photographed by everyone in town (or if I was, I wasn’t aware of it)!   They were going into all the establishments connected with maiko/geiko business to pay their respects to important people within and to ask for their benevolent support.

Your hair needs fixing AGAIN.

…an artist at work…

readjusting the adjustments

By the way, have you noticed that Kiyono’s top lip is not painted red?  This is because she is the most junior of maiko at the moment; still a teenager.  She is not expected to be sophisticated or worldly in any way.  She is young with everything to learn from those more senior than her – ie everyone!  Both lips will not be red until she gains more experience.

I am no specialist in otokoshi.  In fact I had to ask my on-line friends, who know way more than I do, what his official title is.  (I was just calling him ‘dresser’.)  If you want to learn about all the things an otokoshi does, I suggest you google the word.  There is plenty written on the subject.  My aim is to share my admiration for this particular man who has impressed me so much each time I have witnessed him in action.

this needs fixing

“Caring and kind Otokoshi-san, your skillful way with people has not gone unnoticed.  You set an example to us all.  I am sorry I can’t address you by your real name but consider me an ardent fan!”

Goodbye and thank you for coming!

Related page:  Subject 2: Geisha

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Northern Exposure

Northern Exposure

A shinkansen leaving from Kyoto Station, 27th March, 2013.

I have been back in Australia for three days; certainly not long enough to feel normal yet.  I would like to share a few photos from my trip to the northern hemisphere.  There will be more photos than descriptions in this post because my brain is still floating out there in jet-lag land.  I am a bit fuzzy!

Kiyono on the day of her misedashi, 27th March, 2013.

I was very fortunate to be able to witness a misedashi in Kyoto.  This is a celebratory day; the day when a girl becomes a maiko for the first time.  She has already worked long and hard to get to this point so a misedashi is an important milestone for her.  Kiyono is the name of this maiko from Gion Kobu.  Here, she kindly poses in front of the sakura (cherry blossom) by the Shirakawa stream.  Though there were many photographers Kiyono stayed composed and good-humoured from start to finish.

Taking the baby out for some fresh air in Saint-Petersburg. 31st March 2013.

The Hermitage from across the frozen river. Saint-Petersburg, 2nd April, 2013.

From Japan, Matthew and I flew to Saint-Petersburg.  We also flew from spring right back to winter.  I have never seen a frozen river before.  Walking was a continual issue – how not to slip over.  Old ladies zoomed past me as I teetered on the ice.  They were well used to these conditions!  I did not know what I would think of being in Russia.  I loved it!  I had never been in such cold before and I was spellbound.

Spring time in Helsinki! 8th April, 2013.

Poor Europeans!  I know that winter has been extra long for you.  For me, though, who lives in the perpetual summer of Perth, this was the biggest treat ever.  I adored the snow and every time it snowed (often) I went out in it.  (We went to Latvia and Estonia too but I will save some photos for other posts.)

First really warm day in Paris. 14th April, 2013.

Paris was raining as usual when I arrived.  I expected that.  However it felt quite warm after northern Europe.  Last Sunday, though, it suddenly heated up to about 25 degrees.  Everyone burst out into the streets.  Those ubiquitous black coats came off to reveal – short sleeves, dresses, shorts, skin on arms and legs.  There was a general air of festivity as people gratefully basked in sunshine.

Singapore with water lilies. 16th April 2013.

To the other extreme, Singapore was BOILING.  These water lilies are perfect for the tropical conditions of Singapore.  I walked out a little and was soon panting with the effort even though I’m as fit as anything from so much exercise in Europe.  I just couldn’t handle the humidity.

Happy to be in Kyoto again. March, 2013.

It was the most wonderful three and a half weeks.  What is more, I have stacks of new material to draw from.  The problem will be knowing what to begin with…but what a pleasant problem!

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